Use ONLY factory-trained repair technicians for all major manufacturers.
 You see, you can't properly repair or service scuba gear (whether you have a "certificate" or not) if you don't have at least a basic education in mechanics 101. Things like the proper use of torque pressures, which side of the snap ring goes against the pressure load, proper use of measuring tools to determine correct clearances, and even the proper use of basic hand tools. The repair courses currently offered by most of the dive industry assumes that the person undergoing the technician training has this basic knowledge and possess certain mechanical skills. The fact is, they usually do not.
Parts covered under warranty are no charge. If equipment is not under warranty, you will incur cost for parts and normal maintenance. Nonstandard parts should be priced independently.
You'll breathe easier if you get your dive gear serviced at least once a year as recommended!
Maintenance Service Should Include:
- Replacement of all factory recommended "o" rings and seats.
- Replacement of all additional "o" rings as necessary or requested.
- Replacement of all nonfunctioning parts with manufacturers replacement parts.
- Bench test before and after servicing.
- Water test for performance after servicing.
- Replacement of pressure gauge swivel "o" rings.
- 2nd stage cannot be serviced without 1st stage.
- Full system considered to be first and second-stage, safe second and gauges.
If you are serious about your diving, then you should be as equally serious about maintaining your maintenance on your scuba equipment. SCUBA diving is done most efficiently when the equipment being used is operating at its peak performance. This can only be accomplished if the equipment is well maintained. Since most diving courses have to focus on the use of equipment, rather than the equipment itself, many divers do not have a full understanding of equipment maintenance.
When you are finished using your scuba equipment, it is necessary to disassemble it for rinsing and storage. Cleaning your gear after each dive will not only extend the life of your gear but give you an opportunity to check for any problems. Once you create a cleaning routine it will become second nature to you.
There are three general maintenance procedures used in caring for all diving equipment:
1) Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after each use,
2) Keep out of direct sunlight and
3) Store in a cool, dry place.
A Freshwater rinse will eliminate contaminants and corrosion. After you have used your equipment in salt water, it should be soaked for several minutes in warm, fresh water to prevent the buildup of damaging slat crystals. Because the sun's rays can damage neoprene and silicone products, avoid leaving your equipment in direct sunlight. Dry your equipment thoroughly before storing it. In addition, masks and other equipment composed of silicone should be stored away from black rubber products to prevent staining of the silicone.
I have provided some basic maintenance information below. These are only guidelines be sure to check with the equipment manufacturer for the exact maintenance required for your gear.
Below are some helpful tips on "Care and Maintenance" of your scuba equipment. The better you take care of your equipment, the better it will take care of you.
| Regulators -
After each day of diving, the regulator must be cleaned, inspected and prepared for the next use or for storage. As soon as the regulator is removed from the SCUBA cylinder, reinstall the dust cap over the regulator inlet port. This cap is normally attached to the regulator yoke and therefore has been under water. Be sure to blow out the water in this cap before securing it over the inlet port. Ensure that the O-ring is in place inside the dust cap. As soon as possible after diving, the regulator must be soaked in warm (not over 120 degrees) tap water, for a short period of time, to remove salt and mineral deposits. The preferred method is to attach the regulator to a SCUBA cylinder, open the cylinder valve and thoroughly soak both the first and second stage regulators. Pay particular attention to directing water into the mainspring cavity of the first stage regulator, the second stage mouthpiece, and the holes in the second stage boxtop. Depress the purge button several times while the regulator is submerged in water. If no SCUBA tank is available, follow the above procedure, but be very careful NOT to depress the purge button, or leave the dust cap off when the regulator is submerged in water. Failure to do this will result in water entering both regulator stages, which could result in internal corrosion. Shake dry and wipe the regulator's exterior with a clean cloth. Store the regulator in a cool, dry place with a large loop in the hoses. Do not store in a small regulator bag, as this will damage the hoses. |
Buoyancy Compensators
Internal Care - In a salt water environment, it is extremely important to flush all the salt out of the vest before it dries and forms rock salt. The rock salt will cut the bladder to shreds in a very short period of time. The vest should be rinsed internally with warm water after each day of diving. Depress the oral inflator button and allow warm water to flow into the vest until it is about 1/3 full. Grip the vest by the top with one hand and the bottom with the other allowing water to accumulate on one side of the vest only. Gather all the straps and the oral inflator hose in one hand and move the vest from side to side allowing the water to travel rapidly from one end of the vest to the other. Then transfer the water to the other side and repeat procedure. Next, gather all the water to the oral inflator side of the drain valve. Open the valve and allow the water to flow out. Before all the water is drained, taste it. If salt is present or the water is not clear, drain and repeat the rinsing procedure.
External Care - Rinse the exterior thoroughly in warm water, paying particular attention to push button valves and the oral inflator, and make certain they are operating freely. With the bladder bag vest, rinse the zipper while moving the slide back and forth about 2" otherwise it may freeze shut with salt corrosion. Spray it with silicone after it dries. Spray the outside of the power inflator hose with silicone. This will help prevent the hose from deteriorating. (Be careful to avoid spraying silicone on plastic parts).
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Underwater Cameras - Before each day of diving, inspect O-ring(s) for cuts, tears, dirt or any damage. Clean all O-ring(s) then lubricate with a very light coating of the manufacture recommended type of O-ring grease. Replace any O-ring(s) if damaged. Latch and inspect all compartment doors. Replace all worn or damaged parts. At the end of each day of diving, all underwater camera equipment must be soaked in fresh water to remove salt deposits. Keep everything sealed while rising. Never use detergents, cleaners, solvents or chemicals to clean your camera equipment. The mask bucket on a boat is full of detergent - DO NOT USE THE MASK BUCKET TO RINSE YOUR PHOTO EQUIPMENT. Let the water drain from all of your camera equipment and wipe with a soft dry towel (such as a chamois) until dry. Be sure that you and your camera equipment are dry before opening any doors. Always keep the compartment cover O-ring clean, dry and free from obstructions such as sand, lint or salt crystals. For prolonged storage remove all batteries and insert fresh "Moisture Muncher" desiccant capsules.
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| Knives - All stainless steel knives will show some signs of rust due to their high carbon content (carbon creates tensile strength). After each use, rinse well with fresh water and dry outside of its sheath. Coat with a light layer of oil or silicone. |
Wet Suits - After your dive, the wet suit should be washed thoroughly. A bathtub or large trash barrel can be used for washing the suit. Use wetsuit cleaner/conditioner (preferred) or warm water with a mild detergent. Push the suit up and down in the tub for about five minutes with all zippers open. After washing, all soap must be rinsed out. If your suit has an odor that soap cannot remove, use liquid sink guard (preferred) or a half a cup of baking soda in warm water and stir in well. Push the suit up and down occasionally and after about a half hour of soaking, rinse thoroughly (DO NOT put your suit in a washing machine.) If you are going to dry your suit on hangers, it is extremely important that you use an extra wide hanger. If narrow or wood hangers are used, the suit will be damaged due to excessive creasing. After the suit has dried, the zipper should be lubricated with zipper wax.
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Wetsuit Alteration - If you do not have a perfect, off the rack fit, do not feel alone. Many people need to have minor alterations done to their wet suit to achieve that "custom" fit feel. Here are the names of three companies whose services we recommend: |
M & B Wetsuits
4414 Village Road, Long Beach
(562) 422-3493 / Ask for Don |
Sundance Apparel
5423 Lemona Ave., Van Nuys
(818) 787-1288 / Ask for Jean |
Sea Me Repair
4352 Poplar Street, San Diego
(619) 563-9033 / Ask for Karen |
Express Wetsuits
638 Camino de los Mares Ste 130-230, San Clemente
(949) 584-9122 / Ask for Barbara |
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