Dive Lights

[TheSassyRabbit]

Okay. Time to buy a new dive light or dive light system. I made the mistake of leaving the batteries in the last one, and somehow one of the batteries leaked, and well.... it's now a mess.

I need both a dive light for daytime (to look in the crevices, under formations, etc.), and one a more powerful one for night diving. I prefer that they are as light weight as possble. I'm not a cave or technical diver.

What dive light/dive light system do you recommend? And what about the differnences in bulbs (not having shopped for one in a while, wow, there's too info. on bulbs and the difference they make underwater).

Thanks!

[GWNDWN]

As far a daytime light and a back-up night light it's hard to go wrong with the UK SL-4. They are inexpensive and about as bright as you can get for a small handheld.

For a primary light.......first decide how much you want to spend. If it doesn't matter I would get small canister light. I know you not into technical, but hear me out. With a canister light all the battery weight is strapped to your body....all you have to deal with is a small lighthead which can easily be clipped off if you need both hands....so you get the benefit of alot of light in a small package......down side....not real cheap. I've also seen the UK Light cannon in action and it seems like a good light which can be had for a decent price if you shop around.

Ryan

[RichardB]

Wow, what a can of worms this one can be!

For a primary light:

The brightest thing going now is the metal halide (also called HID or high intensity discharge). These lights have 1,000 hour lamp (i.e. bulb) life, long (relatively speaking) battery life, and bright! Sometimes too bright. The light has a very high "temperature" meaning it's "CRI" or color rendering index is a tad on the blue side which cuts through water better. This means it REALLY promotes the colors of fish and coral. The drawbacks are that it takes a few moments (20 seconds or so) to "warm up" to full brightness. Also, you can't just "turn it on and off." The lamps are not very resistant to shock (getting banged around) and rapid cycling (turning on and off) will reduce lamp life. Also, lamps are expensive (around $75) and are not always available if you should need a replacement. Hand held metal halide lanterns, like the UK Light Cannon, will cost $150 to $200 and are neutrally buoyant. Canister types are much more expensive, but offer easier handling of the "light head." Even with the drawbacks, the light is fantastic.

As an alternative, the new high discharge (3 and 5 watt) LED lights are a very good choice. Good bright, white light, very long battery life, the lamps last a VERY long time and they can take a lot of punishment. Cost is also more reasonable. Get one with multiple LEDs.

If you want to go conventional, the UK C-8 is a good choice.

For a back-up or mini light. Consider the UK SL4 light, or the same with the LED lamps. You may also want to have a smaller one like the UK Mini Q40 eLED. Designed to strap to your mask, I've found it has better functionality when attached to your gauge console.

[Shamu]

CJ and I both just bought the UK Light Cannon 100, on sale for $169 (unfortunately, we didn't get to try them out in the Bahamas). I bought this light based on several very good reviews. It's an HID light, quite powerful apparently (though I don't have firsthand experience yet), and a pretty reasonable price tag for what you get.

[Zendiver]

Mike, I also have the Cannon 100 and spent about the same monies. However, as Ryan has stated, if I had to do it again, I would have bought the cannister system for the very reasons he suggested. The Cannon is a bit bulky and heavy, and trying to get back on a boat in 3+ seas with the lights and video housing, it can be a chore. I have broke a couple of bulbs already for it banging on the ladders. I am looking this year to get the cannister system as in preparation for my continued education into the TECHie group.

[Shamu]

Mike, I also have the Cannon 100 and spent about the same monies. However, as Ryan has stated, if I had to do it again, I would have bought the cannister system for the very reasons he suggested.

Yes, but aren't those canister systems $1,000+? Maybe some are cheaper than that, but my tech diver friend spent close to $1,500 for his. Sure, it made it seem like daylight during... the daytime... but as a recreational diver, I would never pay more for a light than I spent on my dive computer, no matter how bright or portable or fancy or cool it is. That's just me...

[GWNDWN]

For the most part they start at about 500 bucks for a new HID light....almost all new ones are HID. You can pickup used halogen or HID for less. They are definitely not the cheapest lights but they are worth every penny.

Yes, but aren't those canister systems $1,000+? Maybe some are cheaper than that, but my tech diver friend spent close to $1,500 for his. Sure, it made it seem like daylight during... the daytime... but as a recreational diver, I would never pay more for a light than I spent on my dive computer, no matter how bright or portable or fancy or cool it is. That's just me...

[Zendiver]

Very true Mike and that was one of the main reasons I DIDN'T get one in the beginning. But just like everything else, the prices come down and you can also fine previously-owned ones, which I am looking at. I can't see paying top price for something in the initial stages especially when I am not sure how far I am going to get into it. BUT, knowing me, I will end up getting into it pretty heavy, and then the cost of the light will be the least of my worries. :)

[PerroneFord]

Salvo (Barry Miller) makes some of the best canister lights in the business. Recently, he has started making "no name" lights for one online dive store. If intersted I can give details, but the 10w HID is $499 new. Folks, this is a STEAL. Cave divers and wreck divers from around the world order lights from Barry.

I know you can get a quality light of a different style for less money. But there is a good reason that people whose lives depend on their lights, use this kind nearly exclusively. If your light goes out while your checking out a reef, it's inconvenient. If you light goes out 2 miles back in a cave, you could be in grave danger. Being able to get a light for $499 from what many consider to be the best man in the business is something that I can't pass up.. as cheap as I am! :)

[GWNDWN]

PF is right about that....One name the are made under is Sea Elite...I've seen them go for 350 new on ebay from Divers Supply

[PerroneFord]

For comparitive purposes, I am linking the Halcyon:

http://www.extreme-exposure.com/lights/index.shtml

The 4.5/10w fixed from Halcyon is $910.


And the competing Dive Rite light:

http://www.diveriteexpress.com/lights/lightpkg10w.shtml

That one is $650.

Neither is considered as well built or as durable as the lights made by Miller.

[PerroneFord]

PF is right about that....One name the are made under is Sea Elite...I've seen them go for 350 new on ebay from Divers Supply


Here is the Sea Elite offering, complete with 1yr warranty:

http://www.diverssupplyusa.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=17764

[RichardB]

For caving and other serious "tech" diving, the canisters are definitely the way to go...with several back-ups. I have several canisters for just that purpose. My favorite for caves, though, is not the HID. I feel (and some will disagree) that the HID lamps (bulbs) are too susceptible to impact failure. More conventional technologies, while less efficient, are proven, more durable and may handle the rigors of a caving more reliably. Still, that bright HID light is great and really lights up an area.

For open water diving, buying a $1,500, $1,000 or even $500 torch, is like building a titanium bar stool for a skinny kid. For me, it's overkill and consumes funds more beneficially spent on other equipment, travel and actual diving.

[PerroneFord]

Well, if you consider your light as part of your buddy procedures, a signaling mechanism, and a way to comminucate at the surface with the boat, then $500 seems like a bargain. The problem with most lights is that they really aren't powerful enough to signal in daylight. At night, it's all much easier.

People told me buying a delrin backup light was overkill for open water too. My response, if I get seperated from the boat at night, and need a powerful light that going to work a while because it's not overdriving the bulb... I won't think that $80 is a waste at all.

Just my $.02

[ZENDIVA]

Good topic Sassy....I'm finding it very helpful as well

Cutie

[RichardB]

Well, if you consider your light as part of your buddy procedures, a signaling mechanism, and a way to comminucate at the surface with the boat, then $500 seems like a bargain. The problem with most lights is that they really aren't powerful enough to signal in daylight. At night, it's all much easier.

People told me buying a delrin backup light was overkill for open water too. My response, if I get seperated from the boat at night, and need a powerful light that going to work a while because it's not overdriving the bulb... I won't think that $80 is a waste at all.

Just my $.02


Sorry, Perrone, but I have to agree with the people you spoke with. They were offering sound advice, as would most experienced technical divers. Open water divers do not need a $500 delrin canister torch any more than a pilot needs a g-suit to fly a Piper Cub. I have some $500 lights, and some that cost much more. They are great in caves, but they are very much an overkill for openwater dives. If you want to make sure you're seen by the boat, buy a sausage, they are much less expensive and far more beneficial for that purpose.

[steelemagnolia6]

I'm pretty sure that my trusty NEMO will signal a boat at night if I get "misplaced"...

Having just witnessed the arrival of sliders spiffy new Sea Elite canister. I am pretty sure that this is NOT what a "recreational diver" would need for signalling a boat.
I have a safety sausage and a whistle for that, as do most us.

The HID canister light has it purpose for cave diving, intense wreck diving, and the tech game (if you are DIR you know that you have to have one or they will burn you at the stake for being a heretic, and it better be like everybodyelses) but for most divers there is no need to spend that kind of money for the bigger harder faster dive light.

I'm with Mike on this one. Why spend more on your light that your dive computer?
Good light packages can be had from almost every one in the business, that provide you with a great primary and back up light. I like UK myself. Great lights that will stand up to some abuse.

[TheSassyRabbit]

Thanks Kay - I was getting a little worried thinking that I was the only recreational diver without a canister ;-)

[drdiver]

I like my UK lights. I've got one of those light cannon LEDs and it's a powerful light, but for just routine diving, my UKs are fine. I've got one of their old 800 and the 1200 I think as well as a couple of SL4. and a couple of their marker/mini lights. Decent quality, not too expensive so if I lose one--no tears. I don't do too much night diving anymore, but a little light is good for looking into holes for fish.

[Cold_H2O]

Thanks Kay - I was getting a little worried thinking that I was the only recreational diver without a canister ;-)
Sassy ~ You are not alone. I do not own a canister light (yet ::p: )
I recently bought a UK C8 works great give good light even in the dark cold PNW waters.